At present recreational boating is considered a non-essential activity and therefore not allowed in the “Puerto de Ensenada.” [Port of Ensenada] This harbor is a port for cruise ships, fishing boats, working boats [like tugs and pilots], pleasure craft, and a center for cargo ships. Each day a different dance is performed depending on which dancers have been programmed.
In March when cruise ships and cargo ships both came into the Port of Ensenada.
Currently there are no cruise ships dancing or docking in the Port of Ensenada because of the Covid-19 pandemic. With the aid of our navigation equipment we have sighted them adrift on the ocean. They are off the coast biding time and waiting to return to service with the new look, safer guidelines designed to minimize the spread of the virus. Many minds are currently working on better plans for isolating those who fall sick at sea. Also under consideration are different ways of dining aboard. The much advertised, extravagant, help yourself, smorgasbord banquets will return with a make over. The future unpredictable date for the return to service lies somewhere over the horizon.
Meanwhile, as Harry and I have no choice but to put our cruising plans on hold for an unknown period, we have become “ship spotters”, observing the cargo ships that are coming and going into Ensenada. We find ourselves tracking them on the AIS [Automatic Identification System] on our MFD [Multi Function Display], predicting when they are ready to leave port and searching for the next ship to arrive. We wonder about what is in the Cargo? Where is the ship going next? Do the crew come ashore? How many containers on each ship? Our ears prick up when the horn blowing signals communicate a ship’s departure and our binoculars are focused to discover more.
In the distance as the ships enter the harbor they look insignificant; but as they draw closer to appear center stage, the realization of the enormity of these vessels is brought home. The sight of the ship announces that, “The Cargo Ship Dance,” is ready to commence.
ACT ONE A pilot boat first goes out to greet the incoming ship. The pilot boards and takes over command to assist in safely entering the port and mooring the vessel. He ensures that the dance is carried out accurately following the choreographed ritual.
ACT TWO The tugs are the next to join the dance. Usually there are two or three tugs assisting, depending on the size of the ship. They have a well choreographed dance that positions them about the boat to push and pull and usually turn the ship around before docking. Like a well trained dancer the cargo ship effortlessly pirouettes on a single point, despite its massive weight. This way it only needs to travel forward when leaving port.
ACT THREE The lines are thrown to shore and the ship is docked. The engines continue to run for the duration of the visit, leaving a curtain of soot over the marina where Flapdoodle is docked.
The three land based cranes work until the offloading and uploading is complete.
INTERVAL – SOME CARGO SHIP FACTS
- These cargo ships range in length from approximately 400 feet to almost 1,100 feet. The gross tonnage is around 100,000 tons.
- Some of the ships carry up to 6,500 containers at a time.
- They come from all over the world including China, Korea, Japan, and New Zealand.
- Some are bulk carriers loaded with crushed limestone, fertilizer, grain, liquefied natural gas, and perishables.
- Over two million tons of cargo is handled in the port annually.
- A number of the bulk carriers also transport motor boats and sailing boats on their decks. Sometimes boats are loaded from here or offloaded. We see them often only for a few days in the marina until they are delivered by sea elsewhere.
A bulk carrier. 
A bulk carrier with boats on deck.
CARGO SHIP NEWS Drugs have been discovered in the shipments of the cargo ships. During our time at Ensenada, two cargo ships, MOL Majesty and NYK Lyra were caught smuggling in drugs and have been anchored imprisoned in the bay for at least the last four months. When there is a quiet period they are brought in to unload. Presently Lyra has been completely unloaded. We imagine her cargo has been searched further for illegal substances.
ACT FOUR When the ship is ready to leave port they are once again pilot assisted and escorted by tug boats, ensuring their safe departure. The pilot boat collects the pilot and the ship disappears into the distance, around the rock wall.
ACT FIVE The pilot boats and tugs return to their docks in the harbor awaiting their next performance.
The dance of the cargo ships provides an ever changing backdrop, our entertainment, as we await our turn to be able to perform a Flapdoodle Solo in the harbor.
The zig zag track was Flapdoodle tacking within the bay. It was a part of her dance when she sailed the Bay once in March.
“The secret of being HAPPY is accepting where you are in life and making the most out of everyday.” – Unknown
POST NOTE When choosing the photographs to illustrate the dance I used images from different dances on different days. It would have been better illustrated with time lapse photography and the assistance of a drone . As we have access to neither for this task you will need to engage your imaginations. I hope the description informs you enough to be able to visualize the performance.
Very interesting post! Those ships must be massive! I would be curious to know if the drugs when seized by authorities do not get circulated anyway because of the cartels connections. I also wonder if the captains and crew get in trouble. In many cases they would have no way of knowing what was on the ship since they are so big.
Thanks. When you get up close, they really make one feel ant-size.
At least some of the captains and crew have been detained, along with the ships, when drugs have been found. I read a little about it in news articles from Ensenada. I am sure it is a very complex web and that the cartel are heavily involved in many ways.
We are seeing something similar over here. From our balcony on the Isle of Wight we can look across the Solent and up toward Southampton Water. There is only so much room for large cruise ships and cargo ships to be docked in Southampton docks so they too do a sort of musical chairs game . We see the big cruise ships in particular coming down from Southampton with no passengers, just minimum crew and doing a turn around the island apparently to help keep their bottoms clean and to make space temporarily for a cargo ship to unload . Rog likes to get his binoculars out too and watch the dance!
We are living in similar environments indeed. It is mind boggling to think about just how many cruise ships and cargo ships are out there on the oceans at any one time. I am sure many others worldwide enjoy the dance too.
Love reading your stories. Feel like I’m seeing the dance with my own eyes–can almost smell the salty air too. Tom & I have been in DC since March, we did sneak off to CO for 3 weeks in May, but straight back east since. Hope to be at CVRR 8/1. xxoo
Thank you Susan. I am glad you and Tom are doing well. I am sending travel blessings for your trip to Chula Vista. Enjoy catching up with your friends and family there and stay safe. oxox